Two days in Naples was enough, so we headed north, to Perugia. It was delightful. The major buildings (such as the Duomo) are at the top of the hill. The main thoroughfare is primarily pedestrians-only. We located the Hotel Eden, mentioned in the well-known travel guide. It was reasonably-priced (by Italian standards) and our pristine room had a nice view across the rooftops to the hills From lunchtime onwards, the cafes and restaurants put out tables, chairs and umbrellas - this is the more expensive part of town. Down the medieval streets and alleys are cheaper places.

We had dinner at the Tit Bit Pub two nights. It had fabulous, cheap pizzas, but didn't really open until 7:30pm. In a town famous for chocolate making, chocolate shops were not that prevalent. Coffee, cakes and pizza were the main offerings.

An excruciatingly long bus ride eventually got us to the station and we boarded the train to Florence. A 10 taxi ride had us outside the Hotel Annalena, in Via Romana. We lugged our cases up three flights of stairs to a delightful foyer. The building had originally been a monastery, and then, a hotel since the 1920's. The rooms had antique furnishings, and ours shared a little patio with two other rooms, and a cat.

We wandered down to, and across, the Ponte Vecchio, and on to the Duomo. The whole city was packed with tourists, and the U.S. and European school holidays had only just begun. The walk from our hotel to the Duomo, and on to the station, was lovely, so, apart from one bus trip after we'd already done about 15km, we walked everywhere. Florence has many, many beautiful buildings and art works, to the point of being overwhelming. We spent a few hours at the Palazzo Pitti, marvelling at the opulence of the past.

We had arrived on Saturday and, with shops being closed on weekends, and for hours in the middle of each day, the streetscape was entirely different by Monday. We bought food, in town, for a picnic, only to discover three grocery shops within 100m of our hotel.

One morning, we into town, then up and back to Piazza Michelangelo, which gave us a great view of the city. We then wandered back to the Duomo for a look inside.