SoftMaple's Intrepid Explorer

SoftMaple Curlies
Mark and Cathy Lewandowski
8282 Soft Maple Road
Croghan NY 13327
softmaple@curlycoat.org
Home of the First Curly AKC NA, OA and AX.
Home of the First curly USDAA AD.
Home of the First AKC CH Master Hunter CCR

Moe

SoftMaple's Intrepid Explorer

Moe

Curly-Coated Retriever Information

AKC Sporting Group

27 inches for males, 25 inches for females. A clearly superior Curly falling outside of this range should not be penalized because of size. You see curlies of all sizes. Curlies can range from 50 lbs to over 100.

The Curly Coated Retriever is the largest and oldest of all the Retriever breeds. A CCR is not for everyone. They are a strong willed, challenging, intelligent dog. A curly is not just a Lab with a perm. The different retriever breeds all have distinct personalities and temperaments. The curly tends to be reserved toward strangers. This is part of their genetic makeup. This does not mean overly shy or aggressive. Originally bred in England, the curly was used at a meat dog, and often as a game keepers dog. They will work all day as long as their is game to be retrieved. They may not tend to have the flash of the other retrievers, and this is probably one of the reasons you do not see many Curlies running field trials. But those that have curlies marvel at the versatility. Retrieving waterfowl as well as flushing upland game in the harshest of conditions.

Most Curlies are good with children, but like any dog, you should supervise any interaction with small children. As with any dog, they can be destructive if left on their own all day. Training is a must. The Curly enjoys and needs exercise, but should settle down while inside. Grooming is minimal. Bathing when needed. You can brush or comb the coat when the dog is shedding. Brushing will frizz out the curls, but once the coat gets wet again, the curl comes back together. Trim off any thick collection of hair that blocks the ear canal, or any long dreadlocks type mats. If you are going to show your dog, more trimming is usually needed to tidy the coat. Curlies are not hypoallergenic, and they do shed.

The coat should be tightly curled, crisp to touch and somewhat dull looking, as opposed to shiny. The hair on the face and legs is smooth and short. Curlies come in black and liver color. The curly can be prone to a coat disorder known as patterning. A patterned curly may have hair loose at the neck and backs of rear legs. This may happen only seasonally, it may happen only when the dog is young, or may be present all the time. This is a fault and if you have a curly with patterned baldness, be sure to let your breeder know.

Curlies before breeding should be checked for Hip dysplasia, eye problems, cardiac problems. (OFA, CERF, OFA Cardiac)
There are other health issues in curlies to ask your breeder about. Coat Patterning, temperament issues, seizures, GSDII, severe allergies, premature cancer to name just a few. Not all are hereditary.

Moe has had some Seizures. Seizures are the result of muscle responses to an abnormal nerve-signal burst from the brain. They are a symptom of an underlying neurological dysfunction. Toxic substances, metabolic or electrolyte abnormalities and/or imbalances cause an uncoordinated firing of neurons in the cerebrum of the brain, creating seizures from mild "petit mal " to severe "grand mal". Here are a few good links to Canine Epilepsy and information on seizures in dogs.

Canine Epilepsy Network
EPIL-K9 web site and chat list
Canine Epilepsy Resource Center
AKC-Canine Health Foundation
Canine Epilepsy Webring

Moe and Jack 2005

I want to post this page publicly to let anyone interested know that Moe has had seizures. I do not want the fact hidden or forgotten. There are many causes of a seizure. A seizure is a symptom. But I do want this information out in the open for other breeders to consider and know about.
A dog is a living creature. As with any living creature, there is no 100% guarantee that there will be no problems. As breeders we make choices. Some good, some bad. Some are choices other breeders would not make. As a potential puppy buyer, it is up to you to do your homework. You can ask talk to as many breeders as possible. Some will have good things to say, some only bad things to say. Some will do nothing but bad mouth everyone to try to get you to get a puppy from them. If a breeder says they have no problems in their lines...run! There has yet to be the perfect puppy born. There are no perfect dogs, and unfortunately, no perfect breeders. Check out the OFA site at OFA site. Here you can check on hip, cardiac, eye and GSDII results.
Since both Jet and Seger are tested clear, Mo would be clear of GSD based on the absence of the GSDIIIa mutation in both parents.

Other Health concerns in Curlies
John C. Fyfe, D.V.M, Ph.D. Associate Professor
D.V.M., 1984, Washington-Oregon-Idaho Regional Program in Veterinary Medicine
Ph.D., 1994, University of Pennsylvania
Department of Microbiology and Molecular Genetics
5169 Biomedical Physical Sciences
Michigan State University
East Lansing, MI 48824
Email: fyfe@cvm.msu.edu
Glycogen storage disease type IIIa (GSDIIIa) is an inherited metabolic disorder that causes liver and skeletal muscle disease due to deficiency of the glycogen debranching enzyme (GDE) and tissue storage of abnormally structured glycogen. This disorder was discovered in an extended family of curly coated retrievers (CCR), with representatives from USA, Canada, and New Zealand, and is due to a single based deletion in the GDE gene. This disease, too, is an autosomal recessive trait, and so the laboratory provides carrier testing for GSD IIIa in curly coated retrievers .
To find out about some cardiac issues in Curlies, visit the
Curly Heart Page

Patterned Baldness

2005

� The Vizsla is also called a Hungarian Pointer.

� At the end of World War I, the Vizsla was all but extinct.

� The importation of the breed into the United States began in the 1950s.

� The breed was admitted into the American Kennel Club in 1960.

The Vizsla's General Appearance;

That of a medium-sized short-coated hunting dog of distinguished appearance and bearing. Robust but rather lightly built; the coat is an attractive solid golden rust. This is a dog of power and drive in the field yet a tractable and affectionate companion in the home. It is strongly emphasized that field conditioned coats, as well as brawny or sinewy muscular condition and honorable scars indicating a working and hunting dog are never to be penalized in this dog. The qualities that make a "dual dog" are always to be appreciated, not deprecated.

CH SoftMaple's O'Dark Thirty MH WCX CD CGC CR-536G27M-T OFA cardiac, CERF, GSDIIIa clear	Ch.Riverwatch DesertWind ROM CR-EL30 CR-429E24M, CERF	Ch. Karakul Trademark ROM CR-199G29M-T, CERF	Ch.Karakul Myrlyn The Magician ROMX CR-112-T CERF 88 91
			Ch Charwin Paisley Cr Porsha CDX WC ROMX HOF RWB 84 National CR-109-T
		BISS CH Ptarmigan Gail At Riverwatch ROM CD WC CGC TT TDI National BOB 93,97,98,99 CR-EL10-T CR-336F28F-T, CERF	BIS Ch. Summerwind's Charles Dickens CD, CR-208F24M
			CH Ptarmigan Hard Rain Falling CR-163G24F CERF 88 90 95
	Ch. Avanti's Best Bet CD CGC ROMX CR-CA12/56F/C CR-408E24F, CERF	BISS Ch. Ptarmigan Walk The Wild Side BOB 94 National CR-339G26M-T, CERF	CH Rockmeadow Deliverance CD,WCX,JH,TT,ROM CR-161G24M-T
			Ch. Ptarmigan Jollyboddies Whizz CR-CA11/122F/C CR-241E24F CERF 90 95
		Ch. Springolds Irish Spring CR-252G30F, CERF	AM/CAN,MEX,INT Ch. Karakul Keno CD CR-85-T CERF 84
			CH Karakul Rhinestone CR-167G38F-T CERF 89
CH SoftMaple's International Fling CGC Cardiac Clear, CERF CR-640G26F-PI, CR-640G26F-PI GSDIIIa clear	Dutch, VDH, German Ch. Caballus Inferno JWW'98, W'98, Europasieger '99, Bundessieger'99 Hips A/A (Finland), B1 (Holland)	Int&FIN&N Ch, NordV-95-97-98, FINW-96-97-98-99, SW-96-98, JWW-96 Caballus Fair Dinkum hips A/A, clear eye cert '99	Ch Darelyn Double Dutch
			Int&Nord Ch NordW-94 SW-94, WW-98 Caballus Out for a Blaze
		Oak's Wild Song HD fri Norden Hips A, eyes clear 12.05.00 SF23859/94	Dutch,Luxemburg,German,VDH Champion Cornish Marksman
			Oak's Rhapsody
	CH Mathel Felicitation ROM CR-CA3/38F/C CR-453G24F CERF	CH Haamorin Indeksi ROM CR-CA2/89M/C-T CR-315G24M-T	Haamorin Hurmuri
			Haamorin Usvana
		CH Darelyn Zelsa CR-EL12 CR-351G31F	Eng CH Darelyn Sutton Tied Boy
			Eng SH CH Darelyn Wychita

The Litter At One Year

Some siblings

SoftMaple's Intrepid Explorer
SoftMaple's Dr Kananga
SoftMaple's A Wing N A Prayer
SoftMaple Rainwatcher
SoftMaple Gunflint's Beauty
SoftMaple's Moonshadow CGC
SoftMaple's Northern Loon

hr>Red Lights, Green Lights: Questions to ask the breeder

Registration
Neutral	Expect your puppy to be registered with one of the reputable stud books: American Kennel Club (AKC) United Kennel Club (UKC) Field Dog Stud Book Canadian Kennel Club (CKC) These kennel clubs make some effort to ensure the very worst "breeders" can not register. For example, persons convicted of cruelty to animals are suspended from the AKC (and UKC - I believe). Remember however that a registration is simply a record that the dog is purebred. Registrations are given based upon the word of the breeder. No one from these organizations comes out to look at the litter or see how it's being raised. Registration is NOT a sign of quality.
Red Lights	If you come across a puppy that is registered at some other lesser-known registries, run away - very, very fast. There are a number of so-called registries that exist so that the puppy millers and others who have lost their privileges at the reputable organizations can continue to breed and sell puppies. It's not an easy thing to be suspended from these organizations. If someone has been, it's for a good reason. You may come across a litter or a pup that is not registered for some reason. Why was the litter not registered? Does the breeder care so little about what they are doing? Be sure to ask why the puppy or litter isn't registered. And carefully consider the answer. If you are looking for a good family companion and care little about a registration - this may be less of a red light for you.
Green Lights	Puppies registered in multiple registries. This is called "cross registered". One of the registries will be the primary registry. Make sure it's one of the ones listed.
Payment
Neutral	Expect your breeder to be willing to work with you when it comes to payment. Good breeders want their pups in the very best homes and will work with those homes to make that happen. Expect to place some kind of deposit on a pup that is not ready to go home yet.
Red Lights	The ability to pay by credit card. This is a sign of a commercial operation. Commercial operations look to the bottom line - not necessarily the well being of their pups. It may be that the breeder has access to credit processing through another business. That would be OK, but check it out. A breeder unwilling to work out payment arrangements. This is less of a red light, particularly in areas where demand is high and supply is low. In these cases, the breeder may have a waiting list of outstanding homes for pups and may not need to be a flexible in this area.
Green Lights	Breeders who offer "rebates" or "incentives". Breeders may offer rebates or incentives to their buyers for providing proof of excellent care and training. Examples might be: spay or neuter, completion of a Basic Obedience Class, or attainment of a title or award.
Advertising
Neutral	Expect to see some kind of advertising: Local Classified Ads Pet Store Flyers Dog Club Ads
Red Lights	Out of area advertising. There is one exception to this, which is advertising on the Internet - it can't help but be out of area. If you see ads in the classifieds for out of area breeders or "puppy brokers" (people who will find a pup for you) beware. If breeders are advertising outside their own area that means they are producing enough puppies that they have to advertise at a distance. Lots of puppies generally mean poor puppy care. Short classified ads. As a rule of thumb you can judge the quality of the litter by the length of the ad. More information means a more informed and responsible breeder. Dropping puppy prices. A breeder who has so many pups left over that they are having to drop the price on pups in order to sell didn't go into the breeding very well informed. The best breeders usually have much of the litter sold before it's even bred. The biggest red light of all: Breeders who sell through an intermediary like a pet store or a puppy broker. These breeders truly don't care about where their pups wind up or what kinds of situations they go into. If they don't care about the puppies' futures, how much did they care about what they were producing?
Green Lights	Breeders who don't need to advertise. The very best breeders don't need to advertise. They sell puppies by word of mouth. Or other breeders frequent them . Or they have a lot of repeat buyers. If you're lucky enough to find one of these breeders - expect to sit on their waiting list for a while until they have the right pup for you. And how do you find these breeders? Through word of mouth. Go to dog shows. Go to field events. (Go to the AKC web page at www.akc.org to find a list of your local events.) Contact the Curly Coated Retriever Club of America. Contact the local Curly Club. Basically, beat the bushes until you find a breeder you like and are comfortable with.
Buyer Background Check
Neutral	Expect to be interviewed. Expect to answer a questionnaire.
Red Lights	Breeders who will sell to anyone walking in the door with their checkbook out. These breeders don't really care about the future of their pups. They'll sell to anyone, any time, who has the money. If the breeder doesn't care where their puppies go - what kind of care did they take in planning the litter? And what kind of care will they give you if your pup has problems?
Green Lights	Home visits. More difficult when purchasing at a distance, the breeder may be able to arrange to have someone else do the home visit for them. References required. Expect those references to be checked. If you have pets now, expect one to be your vet. (Be sure the call your vet and let them know it's OK to answer questions from your potential breeder.) Feeling like it's easier to adopt a child than get a puppy out from under this breeder. These breeders are very careful about where their pups go. Their concern is for the future welfare of the pup. Breeders who try and talk you out of buying a Curly. (See Top Ten Reasons Not to get a Curly) The Curly Coated Retriever is not an easy breed to own. Responsible breeders will be sure to highlight the difficulties in having a Curly. They are concerned about your well being too.
Breeder Background Check
Neutral	Most breeders won't offer this information. But if you ask for it they should unhesitatingly provide it. References, their vet and previous buyers Experience statement Clear statement of what they offer to buyers
Red Lights	Breeders who refuse to provide this information. Breeders who can't provide this information. Breeders who don't understand why you require this information.
Green Lights	Breeders who have a prepared sheet or list to give prospective buyers. Breeders who have a written "mission statement" or set of "breeding goals". These are breeders who have thought long and hard about the direction they want their breeding program to take.
Questions about the litter. Why was this litter bred?
Neutral	Always, always, always, ask this question. It will give you more insight into who this breeder is and what you can expect from your pup than any other. OK answers are: Because this bitch has qualities we wanted to see passed on. (with a list of those qualities) Because the dog has qualities we wanted to see passed on. (with a list of those qualities)
Red Lights	Any of these answers: To get our money back out of her. So the kids could see the miracle of birth. To make money. So that she'd be "fulfilled" before we spayed her. (Sometimes at an unenlightened vet's recommendation!!) Because we thought it would be fun. We like her a lot and wanted to keep one of her pups. All these answers show a lack of forethought and planning. The actual breeding was probably pretty haphazard, as was the care of the pups.
Green Lights	Answers like: This breeding furthers my breeding goals. With a detailed explanation of how that is. Because we were looking to produce pups with specific qualities. With a detailed explanation of those qualities. You're looking for any sort of answer that shows forethought, planning, and specific goals for the breeding. This means research was done before the litter was bred.
How often do you breed?
Neutral	Less than once per year No more than twice per year
Red Lights	Look for answers that show too many pups for the breeder to raise properly. Or, that they are producing pups so quickly they may "burn out". Each litter requires tremendous amounts of time to raise, expose, and evaluate properly. Multiple litters on the ground at one time More than two or three times per year
Green Lights	Whenever I can keep a pup. This means the breeders are breeding for themselves. These litters are not haphazard but are well thought out and researched.
How often has this bitch been bred?
Neutral	No more than once per year or every other season No more than three or four total litters
Red Lights	Bitches bred every season. This is hard on the bitch. And it shows an interest in puppy production over the care and welfare of the bitch. Very occasionally, you may run across a breeder who is breeding the bitch "back to back" that is, two seasons in a row. If this is the case be sure to find out why. Also, how long she was "rested" before these breedings. And how long she'll be "rested" before she's bred again. You want to see at least a year on either side where no litters are bred. And a sound reason for asking this of the bitch. Bitches who have had more than three or four litters. Only the smallest percentage of truly great bitches should be bred this much. And it's unlikely that you'll run into pups from these bitches, as these pups tend to stay within the breeding community.
Green Lights	Bitches bred less than once per year Bitches with only one or two litters.
Sire and Dam Genetic Screening / Health Checks
Neutral	Expect both sire and dam have OFA (Orthopedic Foundation of America) or Penn-Hip certification of being free from hip dysplasia. Expect both of the parents to have a CERF (Canine Eye Registry Foundation) certification of "normal".
Red Lights	No health certifications. Indicates a breeder who either doesn't know or doesn't care. They probably bred Maggie to Butch down the street for no other reason than he was convenient. Only one parent with hip certification. It used to be that the breeder had an "out" on this because the OFA won't certify hips before 2 years of age. However, the Penn-Hip certification can be done even at very young ages. So, this is no longer a valid excuse. Penn-Hip is still fairly new in the certification arena - and is still not widely accepted. So, a breeder using a dog under the age of two may have had a preliminary hip screening done. This is OK too, provided the x-rays were sent to the OFA for a preliminary reading.
Green Lights	OFA Hip certification both parents with CERF normal certification OFA Cardiac certifications Breeders who can (and will) give you the health history on one or both sides with regard to Bloat / Gastric Torsion Distochyasis (Extra Eyelashes) Hip Dysplasia Cardiac Problems Coat Patterning
Picking Pups
Neutral	Expect your breeder to give you some advice when it comes time to pick your pup. After all, no one knows the litter and the individual personalities as well as the breeder.
Red Lights	Breeders who can give you no insight into the personality of the individual pups. These breeders either don't know what they were looking at, don't care what they were looking at, or didn't pay attention. In general their attitude is that all puppies are alike, so what does it matter. Breeders who don't offer any advice about your pick. Their attitude is one of "take the puppy and go."
Green Lights	Experienced breeders who pick for you. These breeders are confident in their ability to select a pup for you and your situation. And, they have the experience to back it up. (Be sure to ask about a breeder's experience in this area.) Experienced breeders who select a pup for you and make a recommendation to that effect, but still leave the final selection in your hands. As above, be sure to ask about their experience in evaluating pups. Breeders who can provide written notes on each pup. Who have carefully evaluated each pup and noted what they observed. These breeders have the most insight of all to offer. And, since they wrote it all down, they do not have to rely on memory to make recommendations. Breeders who have had the litter evaluated by one or more outside persons. Many breeders will do this to verify their own evaluations or to get a more experienced breeder's opinion. Remember however, that these outside evaluators are seeing the pup for only an hour or two. The breeder will still be able to offer a better insight than any outsider.
Lifetime Return Policy
Neutral	Most breeders do not offer a lifetime return policy. (First Right Of Refusal) However, should you need to place your dog in the future they should make an effort to assist you in finding a home for that dog.
Red Lights	Breeders who you don't know and can't contact should something go wrong. Breeders who don't maintain contact with their buyers so that you can find them should you need assistance.
Green Lights	Something to the effect of: "If at any time, for any reason, you can no longer care for the dog. It will be returned to the breeder. If you have found another home for the dog the breeder must approve that home before the dog is placed there." These breeders are the best of all. They take their responsibility to their pups seriously. They are doing their best to ensure that no pup of theirs is ever placed in a shelter. Do not expect the breeder the buy the dog back. They are simply guaranteeing a good home for the dog should something happen to you.

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