What we have here is
basic Afghan/Tunisian/Cro-knit. For those of you who do that
already, here's the short version:
Foundation - Ch 8, PU loops through back loop of last 6 stitches = 7 loops, WO loops back to 1 loop. Foundation made.
Row 1 - Knit-stitch across = 7 loops, complete the row back to 1 loop, 1 pass made. Repeat 6 more times. One "weave" square made.
Row 2 - Turn piece to work across the back side of the edge near the hook. Repeat Row 1, working knit-stitch over the purl-stitches, working 7 loops to the "weave" square. Two "weave" squares made.
Row 3 - Turn to work across the back side of the edge near the hook, doing knit-stitch over the purl-stitches, and purl-stitches over the knit-stitches, working 7 loops to each "weave" square. Four "weave" squares made.
Row 4 - Repeat Row 3. Six "weave" squares made.
Repeat to size. Edge as desired. Or not. Tassels on the corners maybe.
~ That's clear as mud!!"
Remember I said this is a Googy Ghan! - Here's the tutorial version.
~ Construction Area! ~ Hard Hat Zone! ~
is a rich and varied technique, but I use here only the
Knit-stitch and the Purl-stitch, working back and forth in rows
out from one corner to build the afghan.
You need some kind of long crochet hook, or afghan hook, or double-ended hook but you don't want the work to slip off the back end of your hook! You don't turn the hook itself in this work.
The size of the piece you can make here is determined by the number of loops you can manage to get onto your hook. For shorter hooks, make squares as big as you can get them, and assemble into larger item.
I happened to pick a long cro-hook, size 10 (why cro-hooks are sized like knitting needles I don't know) which is a J or I crochet hook. I used aran-colored worsted for my yarn. This pattern would be stupendous done up in patches of color!
This style of hook-work requires picking up loops, and then working off those loops back to the start of the line.
Work with a light, even tension throughout. This pattern tends to curl, and an eaiser tension creates a flatter work.
Foundation - I don't much fancy that knot at the beginning of crochet work, so I don't do it. I just start with about a 6-8" tail, make a turn in the thread and keep going. You can weave it in and snug it up later.
A row in this work is seven Pick-up/Work-off "passes.".
1st "weave" square - Neither the work nor the
hook is turned in making a given row.
Chain 8 (a goodly number, large enough to see pattern, and not so large as to get boring).
Turn the little chain over to see the "knobs" or back loops of the stitches. For this foundation, to make a nice edge to the piece, you will work into these loops. Note the loop in that first, un-knotted stitch.
The loop now on you hook is the first loop of the next pass you will make.
A pass: PU, WO
a.) - Pick up loops (PU): Skip the knob next to your hook, and pick up loops in the last 6 stitches, 7 loops on hook. Keep in mind not to tighten the last loop or the piece will pucker on that side.
b.) - Work
off loops (WO): Yo, pull through first loop taking care
not to pull too tight, (yo, pull through 2 loops) to end, 1 loop
remaining on hook.
One pass made.
Notice each stitch you made creates 2 upright "bars," one toward you and one toward the back of the stitch.
QwikLesson: Knit-stitch creates a classic "knit" look on the front of the work facing you, and a knot or "purl" look on the back away from you. If you peek at the back of knit-stitch, you see purls.
Vicey-versy, Purl-stitch creates a knot or "purl" look on the front of the work facing you, and a classic "knit" look on the back away from you. If you peek at the back of purl-stitch, you see knits.
Knit tends to curl forward, purl tends to curl backward.
Picking up loops (PU) knit-wise: Yarn is behind the work as with normal crochet. Counting the single loop on the hook as the first, and skipping the first set of vertical bars under the hook, insert hook from front to back between the next pair of vertical bars, yo and pull up loop, 2 loops on hook.
Continue to PU knit-wise across, 7 loops on hook.
Working off loops (WO): Yo, pull through 1 loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) across, l loop remaining on hook, 2nd pass made. Notice that knit-stitch appears to run vertical.
(Peek at the back of the work -> purls! Note the purl-stitch appears to run horizontal)
Make another pass. Note that on the 7th stitch, insertting hook between veritcal bars makes 2 threads on the side border, this is for strength of the piece.
As you progress, even out the tension of the loops to help maintain uniform size. I like to tug the work backwards over my fingers now and then to prevent severe curling. Hook should always slide smoothly through the loops.
Continue making passes until your "weave" is 7 rows high.
Row 2, 2nd "weave" square - Rotate the piece forward to you and toward the back end of your hook, so that the back of the work faces you and the side is now the top. Pull the yarn over and to the rear of the work, and behind the hook as with normal crochet.
Right here, we are going to create the dimensional look to the basket-weave. Note there is an extra loop in the top line. We skip not only the first one as before, but now the next as well, to maintain our 7-loop count, and create a "ditch" between the "weave" squares.
PU knit-wise across, noting the 7th loop which tends to get lost.
WO in the normal manner, 1 loop on hook, 1 pass made on this row.
Make knit-wise passes until this second "weave" square is 7 rows high,
Row 3, 3rd and 4th "weave" squares - Again, rotate the piece forward to you and toward the back end of your hook, so that the back is facing you and the side is now the top. Pull the yarn over and to the rear of the work, and behind the hook as for normal crochet.
Again, notice extra loops which we will skip, thus forming the deep ditches of the basket weave.
As before, PU 7 loops knit-wise over the purl weave section below.
To Purl-stitch over the Knit-stitch section (PU purl-wise):
Now, move the yarn to the front of the work, and insert hook from back to front between the upright bars of the indicated 1st stitch in the knit-look section below the hook, catch the thread and pull through toward the back. This form a "knit" on the reverse, and a "purl" on this facing side. Mind your tension and ease the loops with your fingers frequently, as purl tends to tighten.
Continue to PU purl-wise to end, now have 2 sets of 7 loops on hook - 1 set knit-wise over the purl section below, and 1 set purl-wise over the knit section below = 14 loops.
Repeat in this pattern until this row is 7 loops high, with yarn to rear for knits and to the front for purls.
Row 4, 5th and 6th "weave" squares - Again, Rotate the piece forward to you and toward the back end of your hook, so that the back is facing you and the side is now the top. Pull the yarn over and to the rear of the work, and behind the hook as for normal crochet.
PU knit-wise over the purl section below and then purl-wise over the knit section below with the yarn to the front, continuing across as before, until this row is 7 stitches high. Notice no extra stitches in the center when going from the knits to the purls in this row.
Row 5, 7th-9th "weave" squares - Again, Rotate the piece forward to you and toward the back end of your hook, so that the back is facing you and the side is now the top. Pull the yarn over and to the rear of the work, and behind the hook as for normal crochet. Knit-stitch over the purl section. Pull yarn to front and purl-stitch over the knit section. Pull the yarn to back again and knit-stitch over the purl section.
Continue in pattern, knit-stitching over the purl sections purl-stitching over the knit sections. maintaining the appropriate 7 loops per "weave" square, moving the yarn to back for knits and to front for purls. To avoid most problems, keep a steady 7-loop count. Every row will be 7 stitches high.
When desired size or capacity of hook is reached, end a row as usual when there is 1 loop left on the hook, cut yarn 6" long and finish off. Weave in the beginning and ending tails. Edge with row(s) of sc or shells or fringe, or other preferred design.
"Oh, Is that all it is!"
Harder to explain
than it is to do! As you can see now, but which is not obvious
just looking at the work, this is done in a "log cabin"
fashion, working back and forth adding rows across two sides
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