Instructions for doing Resin Nails

Resin nails are taught by LBN as part of their "Krystals" system. I started doing Resin Nails my way and then tried their instructions. I find that mine work better, but it never hurts to try both ways!! When I get the opportunity to do so, I will do a full set and take pictures of each step, but for now, text instructions will have to do.

First, do your prep as per normal. Sanitize yourself and then your client. Push back their cuticles, clean up the nail plate, and remove any excessive growth (this will cause lifting). Using a 180 grit file, remove the shine from the natural nail. Do this in an up and down motion, from cuticle to free edge. Going side to side will thin the natural nail excessively and weaken it. Just my humble opinion....but I've seen lots of hot spots caused by techs who filed every which way. Take care to get right into those sidewalls and make sure that they are properly prepped, too. Remove the dust with a nail brush, really, really well.

Next, I use primer on the nails. I know that LBN advertises their system as primerless but you can't teach an old dog new tricks, and this old doggie likes her primer. Nails should be a chalky white when primer is dry.

Apply your tip and blend well if required....yadda, yadda, yadda. We know how to do this. Using N Clear, brush a layer on just like nail polish, and activate. Do this to all ten nails.

Use your regular brush-on resin by taking the brush straight from the bottle, no wiping on anything. Put the tip of it in your acrylic powder and drag it to create a ball, just like you would with a brush that is filled with acrylic monomer. Plop the ball down on the stress area of the nail and work it so that it travels down to the free edge and up a bit over the tip seam.

Move quickly because this stuff will set up in a few seconds and you'll have a nasty looking lump to deal with. If your brush was wet enough then your ball will settle out and start moving around on it's own. If that is the case, just push it where it needs to go. If it isn't wet enough, wipe your brush on a lint-free towel and re-dip in the resin. Use your wet brush to stroke out the product before it gets too gummy and stiff. Do the same thing at the cuticle and work the product toward the tip seam, keeping the product from touching the skin. Use your cuticle stick if you have to. Do this to all 10 nails. Check to see that you don't have any dips in the center of the nail plate. If your nail looks lumpy, use another ball of product. Activate. File and smooth with a 180 grit file. Remove dust

Brush on a layer of N Pink, just like polish. Activate.

Spray with oil and use a fine grit sponge buffer to smooth some more - pay attention to the cuticle area and make sure that it's nicely shaped and filed flush. Proceed with a buffer to create a high gloss shine, cover with Plastic Sealer or other sealer - Backscratchers makes a nice one, too.

Clean your brush with product remover, brush saver,....whatever your line advises....basically a solvent to break up all the goo. Don't put your brush back into your resin bottle before you've cleaned it out.

To make a white free edge, take either a dipping system form or a horseshoe sculpting form and cover the nailbed so that it is not covered in white powder or resin. You would do this right before you start making product balls. Apply resin to the exposed free edge and either dip (I don't like this) or use a pipette to pour the powder over the nail. Tap to remove excess, remove form and seal with a coat of resin. The easier thing to do is get some Tip Tops paint on white and either paint the tip in two thin coats before product is applied (run a buffer over it to dull it a bit) or paint on the white free edge before the nail is covered with N Pink.

Fills are done as per normal.

Alternative:

About three years ago, everyone was buzzing about doing wraps and resins without any etching or roughing up of the nail plate at all -- just applying a small moleculed oil after cuticle work and sanitation, then proceeding with the product application. I did this on Jill's nails and it worked. It's time for her fill and she still has all ten on. I've filled my own nails this way, and it's worked for me, too. I don't know if anyone else is still doing nails this way but I find that it works for me, especially on clients that come from other salons with obvious damage from over-filing or improper product removal.